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    Avatar Of MisanthropeMisanthrope
    Post count: 5

    Forgot to take before pictures.  My apologies.

    Let me start by saying I’m in lust with Evaporust.  I have an electrolysis set up and have used vinegar for years for rust removal.  For light to moderate rust, Evaporust rocks.  Seriously, I want to take long, hot showers with Evaporust.  I want to walk along the beach with it and look deeply into its eyes.  I want to swap spit with it.

    A 12-hour soak removed all the surface rust, even the on the cross pin.  It didn’t leave the heavy coat of black oxide you tend to get with electrolysis or vinegar.  Just a quick wipe and a spray with WD40.

    Started out with a maroon 3M scrub to remove the surface grime and rust.  About 75% of the japanning is still intact.  Kramerized the tote and knob.

    However, the sole is badly pitted.  I hated to do it, but I ended up lapping the sole with 80 grit aluminum oxide.  After extensive lapping, I still have a trail of pitting along the right side of the sole.  Toe, heel, and mouth are all in plane.  My question, good enuff?

    I keep telling myself it’s a scrub, not a joiner.  Would you leave it as is, or go for a longer shoulder and forearm work-out?  Enquiring minds want to know……



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    • Avatar Of Mike In TnMike in TN
      Post count: 301

      Hi Gerry,

      Congratulations on the find. It looks great to me as it is.

      I guess I have tried most of the processes for rust removal (including Evaporust) and still normally have to resort to mechanical rust removal including abrasives and (insert gasps here) wire wheels. The best thing about chemicals and electrolysis is the ability to reach areas not normally accessible by mechanical means. It all depends on the circumstances. I can honestly say that none of the methods have resulted in the level of excitement you seem to have found. I hope you two continue to be happy together but I prefer human relationships for some of the activities you mention. Just be sure to wear appropriate safety equipment. No glove, no love.

      As far as the scrub plane is concerned, rough planes for rough work. Issues such as nicked blades, pitting on blades, slight rocking due to sole issues, etc. should have little effect especially since the surfaces worked will almost always have additional planing performed on them. Even with planes intended for fine finishing work, pits on the tool body will have little effect on the work the plane does as long as the involved surfaces are sufficiently flat and/or in whatever relationship with other surfaces are appropriate to the function to the tool. Of course my “rehabilitations” are intended to place the tools into proper working condition and there is little effort to “restore” them to a “factory-fresh” state. In other words, prepare the tool for the intended work, or alternately, regulate the tool to the work it is suited for. Most of my tools are antiques and they retain their “patina”.  “Pretty” is nice but secondary to function in my shop.

      Have fun.

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