Here's my 2 cents
When I made my 3rd shooting board (after finding fault with the previous 2), I used MDF as the base, and roughed up the entire top surface.
I then milled my backstop, which I insured had 2 perfectly square surfaces. Take the time to do this as it will yield dividends down the road.
Glue a strip of hardwood to the edge of a piece of 1/4″ plywood and insure that it is square with the side where the backstop will be, as well as being square with the surface onto which the lumber will eventually be placed, AS WELL AS the end past which you will be planing.
Next, I glued that piece of 1/4″ plywood to the surface of the MDF, except in the area of the back stop. After letting that dry, I did the same for the back stop, insuring that it was square with the surface of the plywood and the edge against which the plane sole will ride. Once dry, I pre-filled and countersunk holes for screws in both the plywood surface as well as the back side where the backstop now resides. WAIT UNTIL THE GLUE SETS BEFORE DOING THIS. Though the screws into the plywood may not be necessary, the ones into the backstop are. Don’t neglect these.
Next, I fitted my plane where it should go and began breaking in the surface (just a few passes).
Now here is where I differ in my approach. I create a wedge onto which I fit my plane. The thicker part of the wedge is at the side closest to you as you use the shooting board. This wedge need only be a few degrees, but it will definitely ease the entry into hardwoods (I have used this on purpleheart with no problems).
Next, I create a guide strip to prevent the plane from moving laterally and attach this with screws. Allow for seasonal adjustment. This will help keep the plane from tipping left or right.
After that, the rest is technique: holding the lumber securely while planing and NOT tipping the plane. Good luck.