Avatar Of Mike In TnMike in TN
Post count: 301


<span style=”font-family: ‘Georgia’,’serif’; color: #333333;”>Hi again guys,</span>


<span style=”font-family: ‘Georgia’,’serif’; color: #333333;”>I wonder if the surface texture of the file/blade has anything to do with the stuck wedge? Added thickness would probably just make the wedge stick out further but could cause issues with the plane mouth.</span>


<span style=”font-family: ‘Georgia’,’serif’; color: #333333;”> If the wedge easily slips in and out of the plane body to full depth without the iron being present then the problem isn’t the thickness of the wedge. If the wedge is slightly too thick you can try cleaning, drying, scraping and finally planning it so that it does easily slide in to depth.</span>


<span style=”font-family: ‘Georgia’,’serif’; color: #333333;”>To dislodge a plane wedge I do pretty much as the previous posters. I would normally hold the plane in my left hand (right handed) with my upper thumb and my fore finger holding the wedge and iron. I take a large flat wooden mallet and strike the back end of the plane as needed to dislodge the wedge. I find this normally works and I feel I have more control with that the “bang the top on the bench, the back end on the floor, drop it on the floor” or similar methods. If this does not work then the issue is probably where a previous owner has applied a finish to the plane and it has effectively glued the wedge and iron in place. If the plane has been “glued” together, You could soak it in solvents such as alcohol, acetone, or mineral spirits after trying each against the finish on the plane surface. Watch out for sparks (most fires in the woodshop are normally a bad thing) and try the back smack method again. Clean the disassembled parts and allow the parts to dry out  before trying further repairs. If you are afraid of loosening boxing with the solvents you might apply it locally at the wedge or apply a soaked rag at the wedge.</span>


<span style=”font-family: ‘Georgia’,’serif’; color: #333333;”>I come from an area of the southern USA where people have the habit of taking what they have and making do. Having said that, I don’t have a problem with someone taking it upon themselves to take an old file and making a plane blade from it. I have several tools where a previous owner repurposed materials to good effect. File steel is at least as good as most of the steel the old timers used for tool blades. The wood won’t care if it is a particular type of tool steel as long as the blade is sharp, holds an edge and is tough enough to be serviceable. Any repairs or changes to a tool are always a compromise of money, time, skill, and what you are trying to accomplish. You could always just sell the plane as is and buy another one and would probably be time and money ahead. If you enjoy the challenge and have basic metal skills I see no reason why you couldn’t make a very serviceable blade from a file, and it doesn’t have to be the iron that came with the plane. Just time, a little knowhow, and some effort. </span>


<span style=”font-family: ‘Georgia’,’serif’; color: #333333;”>You could do what Bill suggests and there are good and bad things about each option. A chunk of tool steel will cost you a little and will require shaping, hardening and tempering. You would have more control over the finished product if you exercise all of the proper controls but the tool wouldn’t necessarily work significantly better. Another blade from any other source will probably require softening, shaping, hardening, tempering. and sharpening and you still won’t know what type of steel is there. You will have gone through pretty much the same process as with the file but you could end up an “old” blade to go with an “old” plane. If that is important to you then it changes your options.</span>

<p style=”margin: 0in 0in 10.0pt 0in;”><span style=”font-family: ‘Calibri’,’sans-serif’; color: black;”>I have John’s book and I love it.  It is right next to my bed as we speak. I have also been to Ed’s store, bought a few things from him, and love it also. He would need to see the plane and wedge and try them against the potential replacements. That would mean shipping it to him or taking it to Pittsboro when you are in the area (a good excuse to go take a class from Roy, Willard Anderson, Will, or one of the others at the school). You would still undoubtedly have to do some grinding and sharpening. You could just contact Peter Ross and have him make one for you if you were are going to be in North Carolina. You have to remember though that this is a relatively inexpensive tool and most of the suggestions would require a skill set that Don may not want to get into. </span></p>